What’s a Schmidt coupling you might ask, A Schmidt coupling
is a type of coupling designed to accommodate large radial displacement between
two shafts, in the video above, that is shown very clearly, by turning the
first "rack", the three beams are rotated either clockwise, or
counter clockwise, which turns the second "rack", which then repeats
the same action with the beams again, and then the third "rack"
closes the coupling and a shaft is connected to it. A Schmidt coupling can
handle very high amounts of torque. There is no limit to how many
"racks" you can have, or how long the beams can be, but the longer
the beams, and more "racks" in the coupling, the more play in the
system. Until next time, if you can dream it, you can build it.
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Saturday, September 26, 2015
Friday, September 25, 2015
LEGO 10 speed transmission, 5x2
A Lego 10
speed transmission, really??? Out of Legos?? Yep that’s right, the transmission
is comprised of a 5 speed box followed by a 2 speed box, and the low gear in
the 2 speed box is 3:1, while high gear is direct drive or 1:1. I am unaware of
what the ratios in the 5 speed box are, as they weren’t listed on the moc's
homepage, and I didn’t take the time to figure them out when I was building it.
The CV joint and universal joint was placed between the two transmissions to
overcome the slight offset of the axle in the 5 speed. When pinned together the
output and input didn’t line up so the use of the CV joint was the easiest
route to overcome that problem. Now why did I make this transmission you might
ask, well I wanted to see if I could, and it turned out fabulous, the 5 speed
transmission is a MOC I found on Rebrickable
created by neo. 1st and 6th gear will crackle when too much resistance is
applied to the output shaft, the crackle is the gears jumping teeth with the
next gear it meshes with. The device built on top of the 2 box was built to
apply resistance to the rubber wheel, with the use of a worm gear turning an 8
tooth which is directly connected to a 4x7 bent lift arm, thus applying
resistance.
I plan to
build a "car" around this transmission, putting either an I6 or V8 in
front of the transmission, and a differential after the transmission. The car
wont drive, but it will be a model to demonstrate ratios, and torque vs speed.
Until next time, remember, if you can dream it, you can build it.
Saturday, September 12, 2015
Wreckers, then and now.
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| fig 1 |
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| fig 2 |
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| fig 3 |
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| fig 4 |
In 1916 Ernest
Holmes, invented the first wrecker out of necessity (fig 1), in 1916 Ernest
received a call from an old professor, he had flipped his Model T Ford into a
creek-bed on its roof, Ernest and 6 men, took 8 hours to pull the car from the
creek. Ernest knew there had to be an easier way to do this job. A 1913
Cadillac was rebuilt to include a wrecker body on the back of it, Ernest tested
it and realized the weight pulling on the rear of the truck would lift the
front end up, Ernest added rear stabilizers and this time it worked like a
charm. Wreckers have come a long way from the early days, in fig 2 is a 99' Peterbilt 379 flattop wrecker with a 350" wheelbase, which I will be
MOCing, (my own creation) over the course of the next month or 2. I was
inspired to build a wrecker as it is full of different functions, a lifting
boom, rear stabilizers, extending boom, and a wheel lift built into the boom or
chassis itself. I’ve roughed the chassis of my truck, and have already built
the pneumatic pump, placed all 4 valves (lift, rear stabilizers, auxiliary air
supply and wheel lift). In Fig 3, you can see the rough mockup of a boom I
created in order to find the proper cylinder angle, if you look at fig 2, in
the rear of the truck you can see the hydraulic cylinders that lift the boom,
they sit at approximately a 50 degree angle in relation to the chassis. In my
truck the cylinders are straight up and down, which leads to the wheel lift
being too high when fully raised, although I don’t necessarily have to raise
the boom all the way up. In fig 4, the rear drive set up is built very similar
to the Mercedes Benz Arocs technic set 42043, two differentials, hung
underneath 6 medium shock absorbers, with a driveshaft connected to a model
engine, I don’t have the engine in place yet, I do plan on putting an I6 engine in
the wrecker. In fig 5 you see the 4 valves that will control all the pneumatic
features on the truck, the red valve raises/ lowers the boom, the brown is to
supply air to the auxiliary output in the back of the truck, visible in fig 4
as the black hose. the grey and black valve don't have a function plumbed to them yet. The last picture, fig 6, shows the onboard compressor,
powered by an L-motor. There is also an air tank on this truck, to help the
functions run more smoothly. That’s all for now, until next time when I plan on
building a 10 speed transmission. remember, if you can dream it, you can build it.
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| fig 5 |
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| fig 6 |
Sunday, August 30, 2015
Storage solutions
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| Fig 1. |
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| Fig 2. |
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| Fig 3. |
How do you store over 12,000 Lego bricks and pieces? Pencil
boxes and nut and bolt organizers. The blue bolt organizer (Fig 2.) I’ve had
since January and its worked wonders since then, it has 30 small drawers that
can be divided, and 9 large drawers that can also be divided. as my collection
has grown so has my need to store all my pieces, I picked up some pencil boxes
(Fig 1.) yesterday at my local Walmart, as they were marked down to 25 cents,
what a steal, I was able to get 20 for 5 dollars, (my little brother took 2),
they fit wonderfully between my bolt organizer and the wall, and they interlock
with one another. I don’t have the room to store sets intact, so after a while
I tear them down into a box, until I can slowly organize them. Organization takes
a long time when you don’t have the room to pull all your boxes out and sort
each piece you pick up. I have to get one box down and search for pieces that
go in that box only. the small black bolt organizer (Fig 3.) was also picked up
at my local Walmart a couple months ago, it contains pieces I don’t often use
such as; pneumatic valves, pumps, cylinders, and shock absorbers are stored in
this organizer. These boxes and organizers will be filled before I buy anything
else to sort my pieces into. Until next time check out the links in the right
margin and remember, if you can dream it, you can build it.
Friday, August 28, 2015
2 Speed orbital transmission
A 2 speed orbital transmission, a what? That’s the question
some of you just asked yourself. An orbital transmission is a transmission that
is placed between two gears, gears are changed by turning the transmission 180
degrees, and there are usually no dead gears in an orbital transmission making
it very efficient. in the orbital transmission I have shown in the video, 1st
gear has a ratio of 3:1, whereas 2nd gear has a ratio of 1:3, this transmission
is very effective when speed and torque are both needed, but not at the same
time. The only downfall in this transmission is the play in the rotating
transmission body, allows the gears to skip when too much resistance is applied
to the output, (in the video the output is the yellow connecter). The
transmission will smoothly change gears, because the gears roll together,
instead of clicking together and stripping the teeth on other gears. The motor
used to power this transmission is a Lego M motor, with a Lego AA battery box. All
can be found at the online Lego shop, link in right margin. Pieces can all be
found at Bricklink.
Welcome to Andrews Lego world
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| Fig. 1 |
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| fig. 3 |
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| fig. 2 |
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| fig. 4 |
Below
you will find a link to my YouTube channel, Andrews Lego world. A link to
Eurobricks, a very friendly place for all your Lego needs and fantasies. I've
also provided a link to Rebrickable and Bricklink, Rebrickable is helpful for
keeping track of your Lego sets and pieces ( I currently have 12375 pieces in
16 set). Bricklink can be a very useful tool if you create your own sets and
models, Bricklink allows you to pick any part you want and however many you
want, then order them, and wallah, there delivered.
My YouTube channel-Andrews Lego world
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